Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and lively food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city is little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to discover these narratives and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
